What to do in the first 30 minutes after a pipe bursts

Minute one: shut off the main water valve

Every gallon that comes out of a burst pipe comes through the main shut-off, so closing it stops the flood no matter where the break is. In most Minneapolis and Saint Paul homes the main valve is in the basement, on the wall facing the street, right next to the water meter. In slab-on-grade homes and some townhomes, look in a utility closet, near the water heater or under a stairway.

Older homes often have a round-handle gate valve. Turn it clockwise until it stops, and don't force it hard if it's stiff, because old gate valves can break off at the stem. Newer homes have a quarter-turn ball valve: turn the lever so it sits crosswise to the pipe. If the main won't close, call the city water utility's emergency line and ask them to shut the curb stop at the street.

Minutes two to five: make the area safe

Water and electricity together are the real danger in the first few minutes. Don't step into standing water if it's touching outlets, extension cords, a furnace, a dehumidifier or anything plugged in.

1. If the electrical panel is in a dry spot you can reach without standing in water, switch off breakers for the flooded area.
2. If the panel is wet or you'd have to walk through water to reach it, stay out and call the electric utility.
3. Turn off the water heater: set gas models to pilot or vacation, switch off the breaker for electric models.
4. Move children and pets away from wet areas and any sagging ceiling.
5. If a ceiling is bulging with water, don't stand under it. Poke a small hole at the low point with a bucket below to drain it in a controlled way.

Minutes five to ten: drain the lines and call a plumber

With the main closed, open the lowest faucet in the house, often a laundry tub or basement sink, and an upstairs faucet. This drains water still sitting in the pipes so the break stops dripping sooner. Flush toilets once to empty their tanks if the water was coming from above them.

Then call a plumber. PlumbTek answers (612) 254-6294 24/7, and burst pipe calls are prioritized. Have a few details ready: where the break is, whether the main is closed, the pipe material if you can see it, and whether the break is from a frozen line. That tells the plumber which parts to bring and helps get your water back on the same visit where possible.

Minutes ten to twenty: document everything for insurance

Before you move furniture or haul out soaked boxes, take photos and video. Get wide shots of each room, close-ups of the broken pipe, the water line on walls and the depth of standing water. Capture damaged items with any model numbers visible. Insurance adjusters see a lot of claims after a January cold snap, and clear documentation makes your claim easier to process.

Write down the time you found the leak and when you closed the main. Keep the broken section of pipe once the plumber removes it, because the adjuster may want to see it. Call your insurance company to open a claim, and ask whether they want you to use a specific water mitigation company or whether you can choose your own.

Minutes twenty to thirty: start getting water out

Standing water and wet materials start causing secondary damage fast. Mold can begin growing on wet drywall, carpet pad and wood within a day or two, so the faster things dry, the less ends up in the dumpster. Start with what you can safely do now, and bring in a water mitigation company for anything larger than a small spill. If the water reached the furnace or water heater, have them checked before running them.

• Mop or wet-vac standing water into the floor drain, if it's draining freely
• Lift rugs, boxes and furniture off wet floors onto blocks or shelves
• Pull wet cushions, books and papers out of the room
• Open interior doors and run fans once the power is confirmed safe
• Leave wet drywall and carpet pad in place for the mitigation crew to assess

Why pipes burst in Minneapolis and how to stop a repeat

Most burst pipes we see in the Twin Cities come from freezing. A line in a rim joist, exterior wall or garage freezes during a cold snap, ice builds pressure, and the pipe splits. The leak often doesn't show until the ice thaws, which is why so many calls come on the first warmer afternoon after a deep freeze. Other causes include corroded galvanized pipe in older homes, worn washing machine hoses and high water pressure.

Once the break is repaired, ask the plumber why it happened. A pipe that froze will likely freeze again unless it's insulated, sealed from drafts or moved to a warmer wall. A seized main shut-off that wouldn't close should be replaced now, not after the next flood. Fixing the cause is what keeps this from being a yearly event.

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